[...]tive='lgc'>: that which is instantly defined
="lsts lst1">•subjective='lgc'>: that which its de="trms">finition is postponed
change='lgc'>--='lgc'>{time, space, ="trms">matter='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>-->
touch='lgc'>--='lgc'>{time, space, ="trms">matter='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">data flow
in Maya
re="trms">presentation is postponed ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> subjective mode of Maya ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> an sculptura="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list ="trms">ontology='qstn'>?
in Softimage
the distinction between spatiotemporal modifiers is postponed ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> dynamics paradigm='qstn'>?
(the viewport partial renderer in Softimage is part of the ="trms">phenomenological experience of enacted ="trms">interface ='lgc'>=/= Maya's renderer pops up in another window) 4697942
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in Houdini
the de="trms">finition of the onject is postponed
='strcls'>*which ="trms">differences are delayed in ="trms">different 3D software applications='qstn'>?
(the difficulties of clean ="trms">translation between them)
(when I was working as a 3D genera="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list I always reworked the default scence, setting up ="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigs to begin with...)
begining with='lgc'>:
="lsts lst1">•void
="lsts lst1">•camera
="lsts lst1">•light
="lsts lst1">•chaos
="lsts lst1">•soup
="lsts lst1">•turtle's back
="lsts lst1">•absolute ="trms">geometry
="lsts lst1">•ornament
="lsts lst1">•
how the Latin ="trms">language in software ="trms">interfaces dominates the mode of thinking and conditions synthesis='qstn'>?
="lsts lst1">•how, for example, a ="trms">Farsi inhabiter might ="trms">craft a ="trms">different spatial synthesis in terms of a ="trms">different ="trms">linguistic ="trms">ontology='qstn'>?
='lgc'>[b ='lgc'>+ a='lgc'> = ba='lgc'>] ='lgc'>=/= ='lgc'>[آ ='lgc'>+ ب ='lgc'>='lgc'>='lgc'>~=> با='lgc'>] ='lgc'>{a ="trms">different effect='lgc'>}
="lsts lst1">•="trms">interface ="trms">question
="lsts lst1">•="trms">phenomenological ="trms">question
="lsts lst1">•in ="trms">Farsi the joint attachments undergo trans="trms">figuration, ="trms">different ="trms">viscous ="trms">relational property, adhesion refigured
what would be an ="trms">interesting ="trms">interface ="trms">question posed to each of the 3D softwares='qstn'>?
one ="trms">language ='lgc'>='lgc'>---='lgc'>{Bauhaus='qstn'>? De Stijl='qstn'>? nasta'ligh نستعلیق='qstn'>?='lgc'>}='lgc'>--to='lgc'>='lgc'>--> another ="trms">language
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painfully queer
='strcls'>*="trms">questions for my ="nms">ajayeb's ="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">Rigs and pop-up ="trms">book='lgc'>:
my ="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigs and pop-up ="trms">book are descriptive concepts, that means='lgc'>: they obtain their meaning by reference to a particular physical ="trms">apparatus ='lgc'>='lgc'>==>='qstn'>? a constructed cut between the object and the ="trms">agencies of observation
="lsts lst1">•pop-up ="trms">book='lgc'>: an ="trms">instrument with fixed parts ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> concept of “="trms">position”
="lsts lst1">•="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">Rigs on the other hand tries not to ex="trms"nttrm="cluster,club">clude other concepts such as “momentum” from having meaning
='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="nms">ajayeb's variables require an ="trms">instrument with moveable parts for their de="trms">finition (='qstn'>?)
='strcls'>*ex="trms">="trms"nttrm="cluster,club">clusions (= physical ='and'>& conceptual constraints) are co-constitutive='strcls'>*
='strcls'>*objectivity (= possibility of unambiguous ="trms">communication, boundry ="trms">articulations) ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> reference must be made to bodies in order for concepts to have meaning (='qstn'>?)='strcls'>*
="lsts lst1">•my ="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">Rigs and ="trms">books are about how discursive practices are related to ="trms">material ="trms">phenomena
(='strcls'>*)="trms"nttrm="already,spread">reading='lgc'>: “text” is the ="trms">interface between the matrialization of “reality” and subjectivation of “="trms"nttrm="already,spread">reader” ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> inseparability of ="trms">language and reality in ="nms">ajayeb
(“We are suspended in ="trms">language in such a way that we cannot say what is up and what is down, The word ‘reality’ is also a word, a word which we must learn to use correctly.” Petersen < ="ppl">="ppl">Barad)
="nms">ajayeb's iterative processes of ="trms">materialization
عجایب نامه ='lgc'>=/= ="trms">imagined and idealized human-independent reality
="nms">ajayeb's ="trms">stories of ="trms">historically nunhuman people
in ="nms">ajayeb's descriptive ="trms">intra-actions with reality, humans and ="trms">language are part of the configuaration or ongoing reconfiguring of the ="trms">world, that is ="trms">phenomena
we cannot so easily answer where the ="trms">apparatus “ends”
="lsts lst1">•(but again, how can I answer) which ="trms">ontological practices are ="trms">embodied (or embeded) in (the productive and constraining dimension of regulatory) ="trms">apparatuses of my ="nms">ajayeb='qstn'>? (="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigs, hypertext, pop-up, etc.)
="lsts lst1">•(resisting the anti-="trms">="trms"nttrm="metaph,metamorph,metabol,metal">metaphysics legacy) how can I keep insisting on accountability for the particular ex="trms">="trms"nttrm="cluster,club">clusions that are enacted in (my) ="nms">ajayeb and taking up the ="trms">responsibility to perpetually contest and rework the boundries (of my objectivities)='qstn'>?
(='strcls'>*)effect='lgc'>: marks left on the ="trms">agencies of observation
enacted ='lgc'>=/= having
(="trms">agency is the ="trms">matter of enactment not something that one ‘has’)
(='strcls'>*)dis="trms">articulation='lgc'>: the ="trms">question of who/what gets to be ="trms">imagined (and in which way)
(="ppl">="ppl">Barad's sentences are long in a way for the ="trms"nttrm="already,spread">reader to feel all those particular words in one breath)
(in medical practices) the machine becomes the ="trms">interface between the objectification of the spacific body under experience (for example the fetus) and subjectivation of the ="trms">technician, physicianm engineer, and ="trms">scientist.
...some ="trms">ontologies='lgc'>:
="lsts lst1">•classical rea="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list='lgc'>: ="trms">posit some fixed notion of being that is ="trms">prior to signification
="lsts lst1">•="ppl">Kantian transcendentalism='lgc'>: being completely inaccessible to ="trms">language
="lsts lst1">•="trms">linguistic monism='lgc'>: being completely of ="trms">language
="lsts lst1">•="ppl">="ppl">Baradian ="trms">agential realism='lgc'>: ="trms">phenomena are constitutive of reality
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kinetic, energies expressed in variables
="trms">integrated de="trms">finitions='lgc'>:
="lsts lst1">•movements of an isolated body
="lsts lst1">•in detachment with the rest of the ="trms">world
="lsts lst1">•linear function of time
="lsts lst1">•all energy is kinetic
="lsts lst1">•value of “potential energy” is zero
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="trms"nttrm="metaph,metamorph,metabol,metal">metal="trms"nttrm="failure,blur,plur,lurk,tallur,slur">lurgy concerns ="trms">matter in movement
="trms">matter-flow
what about the 3D hacker='qstn'>? what is in flow='qstn'>?
form is ever-emergent ='lgc'>=/= pre-determined ='lgc'>='lgc'>-->='qstn'>? default
='lgc'>[="ppl">Alberti on northwest Argentina first millennium ceramic vessels:='lgc'>] potters’ bodies were shaped irrevocably by their ="trms">skilled practice
objects they made were never complete ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> they were aligned with others’ concerns ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> they were drawn into potters’ ="trms">social identities ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> into the ="trms">category of potter
='strcls'>*="trms">skill and ="trms">ontoloical risk ='lgc'>[='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">question at ="trms">CG artist='lgc'>]
="prgrph">-becoming subject to the processes they are involved in ='lgc'>--(this commitment)='lgc'>='lgc'>--> involves them in both the task and its ongoing ="trms">material consequence
="trms">skilled practices ="trms">situated as the mediator between one realm and the other ='lgc'>=/= (in Amazonia) where ="trms">natural and cultural processes are not distinguished in the same way, ="trms">skill is conceived far more broadly and is not an ex="trms">="trms"nttrm="cluster,club">clusively human capacity
(for Kuna) ='lgc'>[='strcls'>*='lgc'>]="trms">skill='lgc'>: a mark of the maker's openness to alterity, learned in dreams from ="trms">animals that lost the ability to perform those activities in mythic times, it not only acts upon surfaces or moulds forms; it also transfers qualities
="trms">skill ="trms">matters (='lgc'>=/= gauge of ="trms">technical action applied to raw ="trms">material='lgc'>--like the case of The Magicians)
hackers and potters
(potters’ identities were vulnerable, how about hackers after a millennium='qstn'>?)
="trms">CG artist's ="trms">intervensions in 3D ="trms">materials (concidered active)
(we are living in) an inconstant ="trms">world in which ="trms">materials (in="trms"nttrm="cluster,club">cluding computers='qstn'>?) were lively and equally capable of subjectivity
(conventionally conceived) polygon modeling='lgc'>: reproducing, or re="trms">presenting a mental image of a completed body-pot
='strcls'>*='qstn'>?how ="trms">CG artist can learn, like La Candelaria potters ='strcls'>****to take part in an ="trms">aesthetics of care that is also a ="trms">response to the threat of the inconstancy of all forms='strcls'>****, ="trms">responding to perturbations in the movement of ="trms">materials, to in="trms"nttrm="cluster,club">clude knowl="trms"nttrm="knowledge,Knowledge">edge of its inconstancy and of ="trms">materials always capable of subjectivity
(this is significant for ='mywrk'>my research on ="nms">ajayeb, due to the ways ="nms">iranian culture is attracted to the image, and my self to ="trms">CG and digital form making)
my ="trms">relationship with the digital (="trms">articulated with ="ppl">Alberti='lgc'>:) that body-polys (body-pots) are ambivalent ="trms">responses to the threat of inconstancy in a ="trms">world wherein forms (like statues of myrtle) were only ever apparent ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> each making of a body-poly (or pot) is a performance and an improvisation, unscripted and therefore cab go wronge
='lgc'>[="ppl">Alberti ='lgc'>+ Budden ='lgc'>+ Sofaer ='lgc'>+ Ingold ='lgc'>+ Hallam='lgc'>]
3D model='lgc'> = partial subject
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in Maya particles are as little ping-pong balls ='lgc'>--='not'>✕='lgc'>='lgc'>--> relativity theory destroyed ='thdf'>the idea of consistent objects
='lgc'>='lgc'>--> extreme forms of realism
Hitchcock's vertigo effect ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> a tool i built years ago='lgc'>: https://www.highend3d.com/maya/script/vertigotool-for-maya
="trms">simultaneously ="trms">zooming and pulling away ='lgc'>: we apear to be in the same place, yet the place seems to distort beyond our control ='lgc'>==reestablishing='lgc'>='lgc'>==> the way we experience “here”
the vertigo tool doens't do away with human experience, it drastically modifies it in a dizzing manner
='lgc'>='lgc'>--> a d="trms"nttrm="danger,stranger">angerous knowl="trms"nttrm="knowledge,Knowledge">edge ="trms">zoom lens tool, a vertiginous antirea="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list/anti="trms">literal ="trms">abyss (='lgc'>=/=='qstn'>? irony device ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> ="trms">presenting us with intimacy with existing nonhumans)
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='at'>#="trms">veil
='at'>@="frds scrmbld">Janina
='at'>@="frds scrmbld"nttrm="Alex,Alert,Aleph,Alessi">Ale
Nicole ="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>: ‘textile’='lgc'>: a ="trms">material formed at the ="trms">intersections of desire and ="trms">modern politics
="lsts lst1">•textile's ‘textility'='lgc'> = texture
="lsts lst1">•textile's ‘textuality'='lgc'> = ="trms"nttrm="already,spread">readability
to be prepared to address ="trms">relations consistencies ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> (hope to) meaningfully reform them
='strcls'>*(="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer lingering in the textile's volatile gum) to develop forms of critique that can account for the peculiar textiles ‘we’ are currently wrapped-up in='strcls'>* ='lgc'>[globalized economies, militarized laboratories, etc. (BioSteel and so on)='lgc'>]
text ='lgc'>+/& textile
="lsts lst1">•in ="trms">="trms"nttrm="metaph,metamorph,metabol,metal">metaphor='lgc'>: the ="trms">social fabric, the ="trms">Internet, the ="trms">Fold, etc.
="lsts lst1">•in myth='lgc'>: Arachne's textiles, or Penelope's epic loom
='lgc'>}='lgc'>--='not'>✕='lgc'>='lgc'>-->='qstn'>? to account for neo-liberal and transgenic subjects
(traditionally='lgc'>:) textile (racialized and gendered, as “woman's work”) “='lgc'>=/=” text
='strcls'>*fabric conditions and binds our desires and bodies ='lgc'>='lgc'>---='at'>@="frds scrmbld">Janina
(="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer >) Gernreich exposed how the ="trms">fashion ="trms">system ="trms">instrumentalized the body's desire to move” while inscribing it within the time-sig="trms">natures of ="trms">modern capitalism
uniform='lgc'> = contemporary ="trms">fashion's other
digi-camo (redesigned and digitally remixed camouflage fatigues worn by the US military)
desire for “freedom” and for alternative temporalities ='lgc'>+ desire for discipline and physical restraint
='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ='strcls'>*tight spaces our desires are prone to work themselves into='strcls'>*
textures and taxonomies of ="trms">fashion and uniformity
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Abu Ghraib ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> (in the pursuit of a) ="trms">perverse desire for justice (a desire that many feel is best met in the violent erasure of certain subjects)
(let's) stop pretending that “we” weren't al="trms"nttrm="already,spread">ready caught-up in the messy circuits of desire
“='lgc'>[...='lgc'>]="ppl">Freud's figure of the woman who has nothing better to do than but braid her pubic hair into a futile simulation of the phallus, and who (="trms">interestingly enough) accidentally invents weaving as an outcome of this inherently fetishistic ="trms">gesture” (="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer > ="ppl">Barthes > ="ppl">Freud)
Gernreich working with “the future” as a medium and not as a destination='strcls'>***
="prgrph">-he was keen to work with ="trms">fashion as a ‘time-based medium’(='lgc'>~ deliver us ="trms">onto alternative temporalities)
='lgc'>[='strcls'>*='lgc'>]="trms">fashion='lgc'>: a distinctly ="trms">modern clothing regime engineered to ="trms">materially manipulate “the ="trms">past” so it may serve as a springboard into “the time to come”, an attempt to create the perfect tension between “="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">right now” and “back then” ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> (="trms">fashion serving as one of ="trms">modern culture's main engines catapults the wearers) towards a time and place where ="trms">present-day problems can no longer reach them and unknown pleasures are made manifest ='and'>& continually converting the erratic power of our desires into a kind of motion that can be effectively capitalized upon
(brackets and bracelets)
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...momentary and marvelous sensations of free fall (by way of design)
="frds scrmbld">Janina's wardrobe malfunctions
='strcls'>*the fine line between sexual liberation and sexual exploitation (in Space 1999 and ="ppl">="ppl">Star Trek uniforms)='strcls'>*
(="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>:) “="ppl">="ppl">Star Trek's futuristic costumes assert their ‘other-="trms">worldliness’ by emphatically exposing as much of a woman's body as possible to a relatively prudish American public during the peak of the sexual revolution. Theiss’ garments were ="trms">literally devised to slip back into the legacies of shame that had heretofore defined the o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigin of sexual ="trms">difference and the litany of unequal gender ="trms">relations that followed.”
() the artist and his muse (typically gendered image of the ="trms">fashion designer and his model) ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> based on the classical notion of an unhampered and ="trms">naturally feminine ground of conception ='lgc'>=/= masculine drive to be “creative” ='lgc'>: (old notion that) “woman is the o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigin ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> it is up to man (Gernreich) to be o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal” ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> to re="trms">fashion feminine mater-iality into more meaningful forms
easily inscribed and ="trms">veiled shame of nudity
='strcls'>*hyper-exposure='strcls'>* and ='strcls'>*self-consciousness='strcls'>* (aimed at the shame ‘we,’ who live within ‘the cultures of the textile,’ are possessed by)
...deep-seated knowl="trms"nttrm="knowledge,Knowledge">edge that the textile leaves us continually and hopelessly exposed
='strcls'>*our need to be forever wrapped-up in the text/ile='strcls'>* ='lgc'>: endlessly bound by the perpendicular, criss-crossing of one another's desires and the ‘significances’ we ascribe to such satisfying pre="trms">dictability
textile screens
textile’s discursive usefulness='lgc'>: its ability to support and exploit the image of our “alternative” identities
(="ppl">Lacan's) objet petit a ='lgc'>: prediscursive, meaningless thing’
textiles (and the clothing shaped from them) are not “convenient things” that help curtail or discipline our desires (by properly ="trms">veiling them), rather, they are the very object cause of our desire
capturing and suspending our desires in fabricated flights of fancy ='lgc'>=/= a sieve (alak) to pass through ="trms">onto places unknown/unknowable
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="trms">embodied politics of impropriety
rethinking how ‘the body’ is typically ="trms">interpolated, along temporal lines
the medium of the textile (='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">fashion's main medium ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> th="trms"nttrm="already,spread">read of sexual ="trms">difference running through this fabric)
...styles that are not pre- or over-determined by a dua="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">listic form of sexual ="trms">difference
sartorial scheme
abstracting the concept of ‘the body’
attire
(more) body's ="trms">social ranges of movement
(more) flexible corporeal ="trms">aesthetics and ="trms">articulations
='lgc'>{Edie's odd,protracted sleeves of her dress in Warhol's ICA exhibition 1965='lgc'>} the surreal transformation of a woman's arm into a pachyderm's long, wily, and ="trms">authority-defying appendage...
the conventional and deeply gendered notion that ="trms">fashion is “='lgc'>[ephemeral='lgc'>], frivolous, relegated to the domain of the feminine and the body, as opposed to art, which ='lgc'>[is='lgc'>] deemed ='lgc'>[eternal,='lgc'>] masculine and placed in the sphere of the mind and psyche” (="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer > Geczy and Karaminas)
and='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">intertwining of ="trms">fashion and art has long been regarded as absolutely key to the production of the ="trms">modern ="trms">social fabric='lgc'>--intended (like the warp and weft of a textile) to remain discreet, always perpendicular
="trms">modern ="trms">aesthetic theory ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> contradictory structure of ="trms">difference of “="trms">fashion ='lgc'>=/= art” ='lgc'>: “="trms">fashion design='lgc'> = art's constitutive other” (= that mode of creative production that is beholden to the ="trms">market and to the manufactured whims of the ="trms">embodied, ="trms">consumer passions ='lgc'>=/=='lgc'>{ art's singularity, extraordinariness, ='lgc'>[="ppl">Nietzschean ethics of='lgc'>] standing alone ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> timeless or universal knowl="trms"nttrm="knowledge,Knowledge">edge ='lgc'>=/= ‘everyday culture'='lgc'>})
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radical beauty of the quotidian
mundane ="trms">material culture is repeatedly ='strcls'>*elevated='strcls'>* and “="trms">translated” into art ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> “losing its place within lived reality ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> to become critically meaningful” ='lgc'>=/= (Gernreich's) art and ="trms">fashion critically transformed so that they run parallel and start to resonate with one another
(for ="ppl">Benjamin) ="trms">translation ='lgc'>[='lgc'>='lgc'>~= criticism='lgc'>]='lgc'>: allowing (="trms">translatior's) ="trms">language to be powerfully ="trms">affected by the foreign tongue ='lgc'>[='lgc'>=/= preserves the state in which (="trms">translatior's own) ="trms">language happens to be='lgc'>]
="prgrph">-to transform “the o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal” text/thing through the medium of the other, echoes that are produced in the space that opens up between an “o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal” and “secondary” text ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ='lgc'>[='strcls'>*='lgc'>]="trms">translation='lgc'>: inconsequentiality of o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal/secondary separation
='lgc'>--Gernreich='lgc'>='lgc'>--> to make clothes in-between art and ="trms">fashion (now and the future, the self and the other)
it-girl
Beatlesque escape
new paths that young people are charting requires clothes
(="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer is making me ="trms">interested in ="trms">fashion by helping me go through the) economic and scopophilic grains of the ="trms">fashion industry
='thdf'>the idea of the ‘new look’ absolutely dominating the ="trms">fashion s="trms">cene during the mid 21st century
‘new look’ ="trms">fashion strictly obeying the laws and divisions of optically delineated ="ppl">Cartesian space, and its attending ="trms">epistemo-="trms">ontologies and political economies (-="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>: the proportions of Dior's famous silhouette absolutely required that one always take a well-heeled “step-back” in order to comprehend themselves in a mirror, a camera lens, or even a street window) ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> (offering ="trms">consumers new manners in which) to dress, but also ='strcls'>**to see and to understand themselves and their potentiality='strcls'>**
='lgc'>[myself, like many critical artists of my generation, we glean (harvest خوشه چينى) the occurrence of ideological violence='lgc'>]
relaxed clothing shapes
affordable
easy-to-care-for
mix-and-match fabrics
hyper-="trms">modern color combinations and patterns
couture خياط زنانه
animosity, bad blood, animus's ="trms">system, the ="trms">system is made
perennial enfant terrible
(the naked constant prince)
="trms">social change ='lgc'><='lgc'>== ='strcls'>**="trms">fashion must (and will) go out of ="trms">fashion='strcls'>**
Gernreich's economic critique of the ="trms">fashion ="trms">system ='lgc'>--='qstn'>?='lgc'>='lgc'>-->='lgc'>{ disregard of the wearer's comfort which is an obvious feature of all civilized woman's apparel ='lgc'>='lgc'>==> conspicuously figured the middle-class woman caught-up in the middle of the ="trms">fashion ="trms">system as being utterly passive and woefully un="trms">imaginative ='lgc'>='lgc'>-->
="lsts lst1">•seeing woman's ="trms">fashionable trans="trms">figuration only in terms of what it properly signified within the bounds of a patriarchal civil ="trms">society and a capita="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list economy
="lsts lst1">•failing to appreciate the pleasures that ="trms">fashionable styles offer their wearers in spite of the physical and ="trms">social restrictions they impose
='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>--> parochial economic critique (operating in a wholly rational realm) ='lgc'>=/= (Elizabeth Wilson='lgc'>:) how these ‘transforming actions’ might do violence to these orders ='lgc'>--="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ='strcls'>**how the powerful and highly volatile work of desire un="trms">folds within the ="trms">fashion ="trms">system='strcls'>**
='strcls'>***oppression ='lgc'>=/= passivity='strcls'>***
Gernreich ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">fashion ‘works’ not simply by way of its significant expense, but rather at ='strcls'>*the expense of signification='strcls'>*
='lgc'>{ ="trms">fashion='lgc'> = fantasy ='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>==> ="trms">fashion offers our desires a medium through which='lgc'>:
="lsts lst1">•to formally manipulate the discourse of the body
="lsts lst1">•to violently threaten the rational ordering of its meaning
="lsts lst1">•to from which to produce pleasures that exceed satisfaction or sense
="lsts lst1">•to operate on the text/ile in ways that are non-="trms">linguistic (within waking life)
="ppl">Lyotard's “the dream-work does not think, but ‘manhandles’ the text and operates on the text as if it were a ="trms">material” ='lgc'>=/= ="ppl">Lacan's “the unconscious is structured like a ="trms">language”
="ppl">Lyotard on ="ppl">Freud's assumption and insistence that the textures of a text ="trms">affect its meaning ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="ppl">Lacan's fai="trms"nttrm="failure,blur,plur,lurk,tallur,slur">lure (as analyst and philosopher) in not being able to appreciate how fantasy (='lgc'>~ the forms of desire ='lgc'>~='qstn'>? ="trms">fashion) pits the ="trms">materiality of signifiers against what they try to signify
“if desire is the mobile element (here the wind, elsewhere water) that crumples the text, can it also be the fixative which keeps certain parts of it ="trms"nttrm="already,spread">readable='qstn'>? I know of only one notion which can satisfy these conflicting ="trms">demands='lgc'>: ='thdf'>the notion of form, of fantasy”
(my struggle with my colleagues) not to confuse ="trms">fashion ='lgc'>[or any object='lgc'>] for “an object that the subject ="trms">imagines and aims at” instead of recognizing ="trms">fashion as “a sequence in which the subject has their own part to play and in which permutations of roles and attributions are possible”
='at'>@="frds scrmbld">Hoda, ="frds scrmbld">Pierre, ="frds scrmbld"nttrm="Alice,Shariati">Ali
(Zizek='lgc'>:) through ="trms">fashion we learn how to desire ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> how to desire our own subjugation, as well as the possibilities of our own freedom
='strcls'>*political potency of desire='strcls'>* (='lgc'>='lgc'>--> do we need to recognize and manipulate it to our advantage='qstn'>? ='at'>@="frds scrmbld">Foad)
توان سیاسی میل
='lgc'>[looking for='qstn'>?='lgc'>] proper names ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> quickly recognized for offering some sense of sonic semblance in a sea of deconstructed phonemes in Anglo-shaped mouths
='at'>#wear my ="trms">lecture
='strcls'>*fantastic critique='strcls'>* ='lgc'>=/= parochial critique (usually rational economic)
='lgc'>[unpossessed persons are the ones who usually talking about magic, and transformative potentlies='lgc'>]
people who don't care about ='strcls'>*dressing up='strcls'>* are ="trms">situating dress reform (="trms">fashion) in a type of neutered and dis="trms">embodied utilitarianism (='lgc'>--="frds scrmbld">Janina='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ignorant to ="trms">fashion's textures and to the ways that ="trms">fashion's formal dimensions could motivate the body to move beyond the pleasure principle)
politics and feelings of pleasure and displeasure ='lgc'>--Gernreich='lgc'>='lgc'>--> absolutely central to any critical understanding or experience of the ="trms">world
='at'>@="frds scrmbld">Jassem='lgc'>: desires (always, even in the most strict desire regimes) could lead us astray
(the radical moment) when my body pursues its own ideas (='lgc'>='lgc'>~/= the ideas that i do)
post-structura="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list textiles (a ="trms">different form of political activity) ='lgc'>=/= radical politics (such as movements and so on)
='thdf'>that is why i cannot simply critique existing forms for their morality nor simply offer humanist solutions to the problems (of capitalism, ="nms">Iran, etc.) like Gernreich, i am recognizing that by reinforcing or relaxing shapes and ="trms">materials of the there-is, i could direct the ways our desires became caught-up in the ="trms">system's works, or that certain ="trms">materials only worked in certain ways
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affordable (double)knit fabrics='lgc'>: made of variable columns of ="trms">inter-looping yarns, ='lgc'>[they='lgc'>] are made to stretch in a variety of directions ='lgc'>=/= non-elasticated woven fabrics
='lgc'>='lgc'>--> texture of the night, (use it) to drape oneself over the arm of a couch, or to run after someone leaving a party a little too early
paths and forms of pleasure that Gernreich hoped to see all young people exploring
='lgc'>[...='lgc'>] Meanwhile ‘Man’ is temporarily bereaved. But they will find a new way. ='strcls'>***And the new way will have important consequences for clothes='strcls'>*** -Gernreich
capitalize='lgc'>: transformation of unexpected ='lgc'>--into='lgc'>='lgc'>--> simple ='lgc'>--into='lgc'>='lgc'>--> expectable ='lgc'>--into='lgc'>='lgc'>--> convention/style
images of hyper-sexualized damsels laid amidst tall grasses (most controversial 19th or 20th century ="trms">figurations of women) ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ='lgc'>[that is not enough='lgc'>--it falls short in showing='lgc'>] the way that these suits clearly encourage their wearers to close their eyes and explore the kinky pleasure found ="trms">specifically in the way PVC peels from your flesh in one long s="trms"nttrm="failure,blur,plur,lurk,tallur,slur">lurp
plastics don't have the same ‘="trms">memory’ as textiles
they don't hold ="trms">onto the ="trms">past
they won't stay obediently ="trms">folded like a cotton calico
vinyl swimsuit
='strcls'>*these designs proliferated a multi-faceted understanding of one's own skin='strcls'>*
="prgrph">-exposed skin feels so starkly and qualitatively ="trms">different than a torso left to sweat it out under a nearly non-porous plasticine cloth
xxxx
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(we are in) style wars='strcls'>***
critical considerations of style ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> think across subjectivities ='and'>& cultural practices
='strcls'>*="trms">aesthetics of mending='strcls'>*
mend='lgc'>: replacing a part or putting together what is torn or broken
(='lgc'>='lgc'>--> regarding ="nms">ajayeb, reparative, re="trms">figurative ="trms"nttrm="already,spread">reading of the ="trms">past, mending of ='strcls'>*those thing that seem beyond repair='strcls'>* ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> important for ="nms">Tehran's landscape of ="trms">affect and aspiration)
="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>: how arrangement of masculinity (='lgc'>='lgc'>~= acts of violence and wounding) might be ='strcls'>*styled otherwise='strcls'>*
="trms">literal ="trms">fashion victim of war hero
“every man” will put himself on the line, and earn his masculinity via rituals, ="trms">narratives, and professions that are predicted on brutality='lgc'>--and that he will do this without grievance or hesitation
to be a man under such conditions, is to enter into a deeply gendered dialectic forged through acts of wounding and care that ="trms">demand “men” to hurt, and “women” to do the work of mending
...the ways ="trms">modern gender binaries synthesize sexual ="trms">difference
business of state violence='lgc'>: accepting ='thdf'>the notion that our identities are forged through ="trms">obligatory acts of barbarism
how each of us work to fix identities
to do the maintenance work that ="trms">modernity requires each of us
relic enduring centuries ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> cultural need to ="trms">materially substantiate the distance that lies between proper and improper forms of masculinity (dandy and war hero)
='strcls'>*="trms">routine and ="trms">spectacular acts of wounding that gender identities pre="trms">suppose='strcls'>*
='lgc'>--also='lgc'>='lgc'>--> attest to the critical will to desire ="trms">different forms of masculinity
(artifacts preserved in climate controlled bubbles survive time to tell many ="trms">stories)
conspicuous ornaments of legend
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masculinities (and femininities) secured through woundings
(the work of) the maintenance of a particular form of gossip
towel
complex ="trms">figuration of gendered ="trms">social ="trms">relations
which relics in contemporary ="nms">Iran are emblematic of how and why the gender binary is imperative='qstn'>?
...relentless and futile acts of tearing and repairing
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='strcls'>*we need to ="trms">imagine how to restyle[...]