[...]ribing it within the time-sig="trms">natures of ="trms">modern capitalism

uniform='lgc'> = contemporary ="trms">fashion's other

digi-camo (redesigned and digitally remixed camouflage fatigues worn by the US military)

desire for “freedom” and for alternative temporalities ='lgc'>+ desire for discipline and physical restraint
='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ='strcls'>*tight spaces our desires are prone to work themselves into='strcls'>*

="large lg2" stl="font-size:111%"> textures and taxonomies of ="trms">fashion and uniformity

Abu Ghraib ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> (in the pursuit of a) ="trms">perverse desire for justice (a desire that many feel is best met in the violent erasure of certain subjects)



(let's) stop pretending that “we” weren't al="trms"nttrm="already,spread">ready caught-up in the messy circuits of desire

“='lgc'>[...='lgc'>]="ppl">Freud's figure of the woman who has nothing better to do than but braid her pubic hair into a futile simulation of the phallus, and who (="trms">interestingly enough) accidentally invents weaving as an outcome of this inherently fetishistic ="trms">gesture” (="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer > ="ppl">Barthes > ="ppl">Freud)


Gernreich working with “the future” as a medium and not as a destination='strcls'>***
="prgrph">-he was keen to work with ="trms">fashion as a ‘time-based medium’(='lgc'>~ deliver us ="trms">onto alternative temporalities)

='lgc'>[='strcls'>*='lgc'>]="trms">fashion='lgc'>: a distinctly ="trms">modern clothing regime engineered to ="trms">materially manipulate “the ="trms">past” so it may serve as a springboard into “the time to come”, an attempt to create the perfect tension between “="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">right now” and “back then” ='lgc'>==> (="trms">fashion serving as one of ="trms">modern culture's main engines catapults the wearers) towards a time and place where ="trms">present-day problems can no longer reach them and unknown pleasures are made manifest ='and'>& continually converting the erratic power of our desires into a kind of motion that can be effectively capitalized upon

(brackets and bracelets)

...momentary and marvelous sensations of free fall (by way of design)

="frds scrmbld">Janina's wardrobe malfunctions

='strcls'>*the fine line between sexual liberation and sexual exploitation (in Space 1999 and ="ppl">="ppl">Star Trek uniforms)='strcls'>*
(="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>:) “="ppl">="ppl">Star Trek's futuristic costumes assert their ‘other-="trms">worldliness’ by emphatically exposing as much of a woman's body as possible to a relatively prudish American public during the peak of the sexual revolution. Theiss’ garments were ="trms">literally devised to slip back into the legacies of shame that had heretofore defined the o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigin of sexual ="trms">difference and the litany of unequal gender ="trms">relations that followed.”

() the artist and his muse (typically gendered image of the ="trms">fashion designer and his model) ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> based on the classical notion of an unhampered and ="trms">naturally feminine ground of conception ='lgc'>=/= masculine drive to be “creative” ='lgc'>: (old notion that) “woman is the o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">rigin ='lgc'>==> it is up to man (Gernreich) to be o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal” ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> to re="trms">fashion feminine mater-iality into more meaningful forms

easily inscribed and ="trms">veiled shame of nudity

='strcls'>*hyper-exposure='strcls'>* and ='strcls'>*self-consciousness='strcls'>* (aimed at the shame ‘we,’ who live within ‘the cultures of the textile,’ are possessed by)

...deep-seated knowl="trms"nttrm="knowledge,Knowledge">edge that the textile leaves us continually and hopelessly exposed


='strcls'>*our need to be forever wrapped-up in the text/ile='strcls'>* ='lgc'>: endlessly bound by the perpendicular, criss-crossing of one another's desires and the ‘significances’ we ascribe to such satisfying pre="trms">dictability


textile screens

textile’s discursive usefulness='lgc'>: its ability to support and exploit the image of our “alternative” identities

(="ppl">Lacan's) objet petit a ='lgc'>: prediscursive, meaningless thing’


textiles (and the clothing shaped from them) are not “convenient things” that help curtail or discipline our desires (by properly ="trms">veiling them), rather, they are the very object cause of our desire

capturing and suspending our desires in fabricated flights of fancy ='lgc'>=/= a sieve (alak) to pass through ="trms">onto places unknown/unknowable



="large lg1" stl="font-size:113%"> ="trms">embodied politics of impropriety

rethinking how ‘the body’ is typically ="trms">interpolated, along temporal lines

the medium of the textile (='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">fashion's main medium ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> th="trms"nttrm="already,spread">read of sexual ="trms">difference running through this fabric)

...styles that are not pre- or over-determined by a dua="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">listic form of sexual ="trms">difference

sartorial scheme

abstracting the concept of ‘the body’

attire

(more) body's ="trms">social ranges of movement
(more) flexible corporeal ="trms">aesthetics and ="trms">articulations


='lgc'>{Edie's odd,protracted sleeves of her dress in Warhol's ICA exhibition 1965='lgc'>} the surreal transformation of a woman's arm into a pachyderm's long, wily, and ="trms">authority-defying appendage...


the conventional and deeply gendered notion that ="trms">fashion is “='lgc'>[ephemeral='lgc'>], frivolous, relegated to the domain of the feminine and the body, as opposed to art, which ='lgc'>[is='lgc'>] deemed ='lgc'>[eternal,='lgc'>] masculine and placed in the sphere of the mind and psyche” (="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer > Geczy and Karaminas)

and='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ="trms">intertwining of ="trms">fashion and art has long been regarded as absolutely key to the production of the ="trms">modern ="trms">social fabric='lgc'>--intended (like the warp and weft of a textile) to remain discreet, always perpendicular

="trms">modern ="trms">aesthetic theory ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> contradictory structure of ="trms">difference of “="trms">fashion ='lgc'>=/= art” ='lgc'>: “="trms">fashion design='lgc'> = art's constitutive other” (= that mode of creative production that is beholden to the ="trms">market and to the manufactured whims of the ="trms">embodied, ="trms">consumer passions ='lgc'>=/=='lgc'>{ art's singularity, extraordinariness, ='lgc'>[="ppl">Nietzschean ethics of='lgc'>] standing alone ='lgc'>==> timeless or universal knowl="trms"nttrm="knowledge,Knowledge">edge ='lgc'>=/= ‘everyday culture'='lgc'>})

radical beauty of the quotidian

mundane ="trms">material culture is repeatedly ='strcls'>*elevated='strcls'>* and “="trms">translated” into art ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> “losing its place within lived reality ='lgc'>==> to become critically meaningful” ='lgc'>=/= (Gernreich's) art and ="trms">fashion critically transformed so that they run parallel and start to resonate with one another

(for ="ppl">Benjamin) ="trms">translation ='lgc'>[='lgc'>='lgc'>~= criticism='lgc'>]='lgc'>: allowing (="trms">translatior's) ="trms">language to be powerfully ="trms">affected by the foreign tongue ='lgc'>[='lgc'>=/= preserves the state in which (="trms">translatior's own) ="trms">language happens to be='lgc'>]
="prgrph">-to transform “the o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal” text/thing through the medium of the other, echoes that are produced in the space that opens up between an “o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal” and “secondary” text ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> ='lgc'>[='strcls'>*='lgc'>]="trms">translation='lgc'>: inconsequentiality of o="trms"nttrm="righ,rigo,riga,rigi,trig,rign">riginal/secondary separation
='lgc'>--Gernreich='lgc'>='lgc'>--> to make clothes in-between art and ="trms">fashion (now and the future, the self and the other)


it-girl

="large lg3" stl="font-size:110%"> Beatlesque escape

new paths that young people are charting requires clothes



="large lg4" stl="font-size:111%"> (="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer is making me ="trms">interested in ="trms">fashion by helping me go through the) economic and scopophilic grains of the ="trms">fashion industry

='thdf'>the idea of the ‘new look’ absolutely dominating the ="trms">fashion s="trms">cene during the mid 21st century
‘new look’ ="trms">fashion strictly obeying the laws and divisions of optically delineated ="ppl">Cartesian space, and its attending ="trms">epistemo-="trms">ontologies and political economies (-="ppl">="ppl">="trms"nttrm="search">Archer='lgc'>: the proportions of Dior's famous silhouette absolutely required that one always take a well-heeled “step-back” in order to comprehend themselves in a mirror, a camera lens, or even a street window) ='lgc'>='lgc'>--> (offering ="trms">consumers new manners in which) to dress, but also ='strcls'>**to see and to understand themselves and their potentiality='strcls'>**

='lgc'>[myself, like many critical artists of my generation, we glean (harvest خوشه چينى) the occurrence of ideological violence='lgc'>]

relaxed clothing shapes
affordable
easy-to-care-for
mix-and-match fabrics
hyper-="trms">modern color combinations and patterns


="large lg5" stl="font-size:143%"> couture خياط زنانه

animosity, bad blood, animus's ="trms">system, the ="trms">system is made

perennial enfant terrible
(the naked constant prince)

="trms">social change ='lgc'><== ='strcls'>**="trms">fashion must (and will) go out of ="trms">fashion='strcls'>**
Gernreich's economic critique of the ="trms">fashion ="trms">system ='lgc'>--='qstn'>?='lgc'>='lgc'>-->='lgc'>{ disregard of the wearer's comfort which is an obvious feature of all civilized woman's apparel ='lgc'>==> conspicuously figured the middle-class woman caught-up in the middle of the ="trms">fashion ="trms">system as being utterly passive and woefully un="trms">imaginative ='lgc'>='lgc'>-->
="lsts lst1">•seeing woman's ="trms">fashionable trans="trms">figuration only in terms of what it properly signified within the bounds of a patriarchal civil ="trms">society and a capita="trms"nttrm="listen,alist,ilist,llist,olist,ylist,ulist">list economy
="lsts lst1">•failing to appreciate the pleasures that ="trms">fashionable styles offer their wearers in spite of the physical and ="trms">social restrictions they impose
='lgc'>}='lgc'>='lgc'>--> parochial economic critique (operating in a wholly rational realm) ='lgc'>=/= (Elizabeth Wilso[...]